Tasting Collective #3: Twisted Soul

Twisted Soul is a perennial favorite in Atlanta. First opened in 2016 by James Beard Semi-Finalist Chef Deborah VanTrece, the restaurant kitchen is now under the guidance of Executive Chef Robert Butts. This tasting collective meal took us on a globally-infused southern tasting journey.

Course #1 was Crispy Sumac Chicken 65 with pickled cucumber ginger slaw, chili scallion and tarragon buttermilk dressing. It was a tasty item. The slaw was the star here. The balance of the sour pickled cucumber with the lemony flavor of the ginger was a hit! The chili scallion also added a much-needed heat. The only missing profile was a bit of acid.

Course #2 was Frisee & Beet Salad of endive, marinated beet, peppercorn goat cheese, walnut praline, and radish Dijon lardon vinaigrette. It was an average salad that could have been ordered anywhere. The radish Dijon lardon vinaigrette was the only positive about the salad. I love lardons and the were a perfect complement to the walnut pralines.

Course #3 – Catfish Ballotine – crab-stuffed catfish, stewed red pea & farro, pontchartrain gravy and charred lemon. Best course of the evening! I am not a big farro fan, but the stewed red pea & farro made the dish. Reminiscent of gumbo, the dish was the perfect example of how New Orleans flavors come together beautifully. The catfish ballotine was perfectly seasoned and fried well. The sweetness from the crab was just the right addition. The only thing missing was a piece of cornbread to sop up the beautiful gravy.

Course #4 – Braised Beef Rib with ail parsnips puree, confit farm vegetables (cold), collard tuile (non-existent on plate) with bourbon demi was a tale of two cities. The beef rib was tender and delicious, but the bourbon demi was WAY too salty! The saltiness took away from the entire dish as it covered several of the items on the plate. The confit farm vegetables were good as well, but they were ice cold (not sure if that was intended or not) and the collard tuile was non-existent.

And finally, course #5 was an Apple Crumble Cheesecake with limoncello vanilla cream and mint gremoulta – this was a total miss IMHO. It was light on the apple, the limoncello flavor was nonexistent as was the mint gremoulta. The cheesecake was flavorless…not the best course of the evening.

Overall, Chef Butts had a few winners and a few losers. I saw glimpses of brilliance that illustrate why he was selected 2023 Chef of the Year at the Wine and Culture Fest. He’s talented, but this meal had a few false starts.